HOW TO ASSEMBLE AN ENDER-3 V2

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In this guide I will do my best to help future Ender 3 V2 owners assemble their machine with minimal difficulties. I will cover unboxing, assembly, electrical connections, interface and finally bed levelling. Assembly won’t take longer than an hour under normal circumstances. A guide is given with the machine, but I believe some steps are unclear, this guide will help to clarify these steps. The only tool needed is a basic knife to open the box. The rest of the tools are included in the box.

Box Dimensions and unboxing

Ender-3 V2 box

The box dimensions are as follows: 570 cm x 385 cm x 210 cm

Upon carefully opening the box with a knife or box cutter you will find Styrofoam sheet that can be removed. Once removed a second Styrofoam sheet will be revealed with various items. This sheet can be removed with the items and set aside. Removing this sheet will reveal the last sheet which has the remaining parts of the machine. This can also be removed and set aside.

ASSEMBLY

For this step no tools will be required. All the tools needed are provided by Creality. This part will be handled on a step-by-step basis.

Step 1: Installation of Z-Axis switch and profiles

The z-axis profiles can be identified by the unique holes shown in the User Manual provided by Creality. Using the M5 x 45 hex screws, tighten the axis profiles from the bottom. It is important to make sure the profiles are flush with the base on the sides and bottom. The Z-limit switch should be installed now as well. It is recommended not to completely tighten it yet.

Step 2: Installation of Z-Axis Motor and lead screw.

Insert the given lead screw into the coupling and tighten it with the coupling screws. After installation has been done, install the stepper motor to the Z-Axis profile. Use the given M4 x 18 Countersink screws for this purpose. On the Z-Axis profile there are two M4 holes already tapped. These are for the stepper motor. Tighten the hex screws trough the stepper motor mounting onto the Z-Axis profile.

Step 3: Pneumatic joint, XE-Axis and belt installation.

Start by fixing the aluminum profile to the XE-Axis kit. There are dedicated holes made for mounting the kit as shown in the following picture. Tighten with the provided M4 x 16 screws.

When done one can proceed to install the belt. The belt should be threaded around the stepper motor gear.

Install the pneumatic joint by screwing it into the stepper motor Extruder bracket as follows.

Step 4: Z-Axis block and Hot end Installation.

Start by sliding the Hot end onto the aluminum profile. Ensure that the front of the hot end is showing towards the same direction of the QR Code on the XE kit. It is also important to keep the belt underneath the Pom wheels as shown below.

Next, we’ll install the belt. On the bottom of the hot end there are 2 indents that are used to hold the belt. Install as follows.

The Z-Axis passive block should be installed with the M4 x 16 flat round screw on the opposite side of the XE kit. There are holes allocated on the aluminum profile. The Pom wheels should be facing the back side/opposite side of the hot end.

Step 5: Belt tensioner.

For this part the tensioner needs to be disassembled. Disassembly is easy, all that needs to be done is unscrew the blue knob. When disassembled the belt should be unhooked from the hotend, threaded through the tensioner first then be hooked back onto the hot end while making sure that the grooves are at the bottom. Now the tensioner block can be installed. Make sure the grooves align, fit the block over the aluminum profile and Z-Passive block. This is done using the M4 x 14 countersunk screw located in the tensioner bag and the M4 x 16 screw.

Step 6: Installation of gantry to main body.

Make sure the printer body faces you, pick up the gantry and place it over the Z-Axis profiles. The hot end and QR code should be facing you. The leadscrew should also go into the lead screw hole on the gantry. Installation of the stepper motor electronics should still be avoided. This is to ensure that adjustments of the gantry won’t damage the motherboard. Once the gantry is installed check the tension of all Pom wheels. If the gantry is too stiff, loosen the Z-Axis Profiles just a little bit to move it into a better position. Once smooth movement has been achieved, tighten the screws again. Do the same with the Pom wheels. Tighten the belt tensioner X and Y. This part is important to get the right tension, too loose and the prints might not be as desired, too tight and the belt can snap. Tension can be felt by pressing the belt on the profile.

Step 7: Installation of cross aluminum profile and display.

Add the Cross profile at the top of the Z-Axis profiles. Make sure the bigger holes are at the top to allow the M5 x 25 to be installed. Before completely securing the screws, move the gantry up and down to ensure smooth movement. After movement has been checked secure the screws.

Remove the display from its bracket. Then remove the 4040-aluminium extrusion cover. Once removed, position the M5T nuts to slide into the profile. Once slid into the desired position tighten the screws making sure that all nuts have been tightened and are positioned correctly. The display wires can now be installed.

Step 8: Addon Installation.

Installation of material rack. First install the material pipe to the rack. After that is done, add the M5 x 8 screws and M5T nuts to the rack. The nuts can slightly be screwed on. Now one can just put the rack on the top or on the side of the printer (Note: that the Z-Axis will be limited if installation is being done on the side.)

Install Profile covers as follows:

Installation of Extruder knob:

Step 9: Wire Connections.

Select the input voltage to match with your local supply voltage (230VAC for Namibia). Connect the main with the machine still turned OFF.

Connect X-Axis Cables, these are marked by a yellow “X” band.

Next is the extruder cable which is marked by “E”.

Insert Teflon tube into pneumatic connector and add blue insert.

Insert the Z-limit switch connector and Z-Axis stepper motor connector. Both are marked with a “Z” but the connectors are different and corresponds to their own connector.

Step 10: Pulley Adjustments.

Pulley adjustment is needed to ensure that the device moves freely without challenge. Ensuring all the pom wheels are secure is vital for good and reliable prints. Do not tighten too much or too little. A balance should be maintained.

Step 11: Deactivate stepper motors for bed leveling.

The device cis now ready to be powered on. Switch it on. When the display is ready the above steps can be followed by using the round knob. Rotate the knob to navigate through the current menu, and depress the knob to select the highlighted setting/action.

Step 12: Preheat bed and leveling.

It is advised to preheat the bed to the degrees of the plastic that you are using when leveling the bed, for example, PLA is usually at 60°C PETg at 80°C. Steps to be taken, Control → Temperature → Bed Temperature (Recommended plastic bed Temperature)

Use an A4 paper to set first layer height. Once the machine has heated up to the desired temperature, use a piece of paper, gently move it under the nozzle. Now fasten the Z-Axis limit switch. If the nozzle is against the bed, raise the Z axis limit switch a little. Ensure that the stepper motors are still disabled, to allow to level the first layer height again. With the paper under the nozzle, gently move it from side to side using the bed leveling knobs to adjust the height up and down. The paper must have a little of resistance but should not stop the paper. Do this on all sides at least 3 times.

Additional Top Tips:

Something to look for that I seem to have to fix was that the bed snagged to the Y-Axis stepper motor, also the springs are quite soft. Do deal with this I made spacers underneath the bed between the springs. This in turn meant an overhaul smaller printing volume in height. To me it isn’t much of a problem though just something that I would like to mention. In adding these spacer I have had less of a need of bed levelling. With the springs tighter it takes much longer to get out of level. There are some upgrades that I have made to my machine that you might be interested in, one is the steel bed. I have replaced my glass bed with a steel bed, the reason is simple. PETg and glass do not work together. If you are planning on printing with PETg it is highly recommended to get another bed, or at the least use glue or hairspray. Ensure that you use the right glue (water soluble glue).